Introduction
These high-level principles aim to encourage good practice and have been developed in collaboration with a working group of agents, producers, broadcasters and campaigners, who have been coming together to find ways to shine a light on the significant issues regarding equality and equity in hair and makeup services for actors, presenters and contributors. They are designed to complement a robust Respect at Work policy and The Creative Industries Independent Standards Authority (CIISA) Standards.
Why Are
The Principles Important?
Recent incidents in the entertainment industry, highlighted by articles in leading publications such as Variety, Deadline and others, have brought to light significant issues regarding equity in hair and makeup services for actors, presenters and contributors. This has led to numerous challenges for Black, Asian and minority ethnic talent, affecting their mental wellbeing and professional performance. Understanding what constitutes unacceptable behaviour is an important step in establishing an inclusive culture for all aspects of the screen industries.
These new principles (and accompanying guidelines) offer a step for producers and programme makers to address this discrimination.
Commitment From
Leadership
It is essential to have a genuine commitment from senior leaders across the screen industries to help create an inclusive culture. Visible endorsement of these principles indicates that discrimination is not accepted. We encourage all employers to actively promote the principles.
What Are
The Principles?
These principles intend to create a framework for good practice to help producers and programme makers to ensure there is fair and adequate hair and make-up provision for all actors.
Here are key principles that should be followed:
1. Hire Hair and Makeup Talent with Experience and Expertise
Hire professionals
Employ hairstylists and makeup artists who have experience and expertise working with Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair textures and skin tones. This not only ensures quality work but also helps Black and global majority on-screen talent feel comfortable and represented. It is also important to ensure they have or can develop the specific skills needed for film and TV, such as understanding a call sheet, script breakdown and continuity.
Diverse departments
Make diversity a priority when assembling the hair and makeup department or team.
2. Collaborate with On-Screen Talent
Encourage on-screen talent to input early in the production process
Foster an environment where the individual feels comfortable expressing their preferences and concerns regarding their hair and makeup by using tools like Spotlight’s Makeup Profile feature which allows actors to share their makeup preferences during casting. This information, accessible to production teams at the point of hire, enables the Hair and Makeup Head of Department (HMU HOD) to prepare more effectively. The on-screen talent's input should be taken seriously, as the individual understands their own needs and cultural significance.
Respect identity
Recognise the personal and cultural significance of hair and makeup choices to the talent’s identity. Work collaboratively to reflect this in the character’s appearance.
3. Budgeting and Time
Allocate sufficient budget
Ensure that the budget for hair and makeup includes adequate resources for products and tools specific to Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and skin care. Quality products and experienced professionals often require additional costs, which should be anticipated.
Time allocation
Schedule enough time in production for proper hair and makeup preparation, especially when working with complex or time-intensive styles that are culturally appropriate for Black, Asian and minority ethnic characters.
4. Cultural Sensitivity and Language
Avoid cultural appropriation
Be mindful of cultural appropriation in hair and makeup choices. Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup styles have deep cultural significance and should be portrayed with the appropriate context.
Build confidence
To ensure that language is appropriate.
Respect traditions and practices
Understand and respect the traditional practices associated with Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup. Ensure these are honoured in the portrayal of characters.
5. Create an Inclusive Culture
Create an inclusive culture
Foster an on set environment where diversity and inclusion are valued. This includes ensuring that Black actors feel supported in their hair and makeup needs and that their concerns are heard and acted upon.
Lead by example
Producers should set the tone for respect and inclusivity on set by actively supporting the correct treatment of Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup and by modelling inclusive behaviours.
6. Accountability
Monitor and review
Regularly review the work of the hair and makeup department to ensure it aligns with the production’s goals of authenticity and inclusivity at an appropriate cadence. This may include bringing in consultants or experts to provide feedback.
Take responsibility
Producers should take ultimate responsibility for how Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup are portrayed in their projects. If issues arise, they should be addressed promptly and with a commitment to improvement.
7. Long-Term Commitment
Continual improvement
Treat the principles of diversity and inclusion in Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup as an ongoing commitment, not a one-time initiative. Continuously seek ways to improve practices and representation in future productions.
Notes to
The Principles
These principles have been produced by Pact (Producers Alliance for Cinema and Television) in partnership with DANDI (Diversity and Inclusion Support Service for the Entertainment Industry), working in partnership with All3Media, Anne Little, BBC Creative Diversity, Channel 4, Core MGMT, Creative Diversity Network, Donna Taberer, Fremantle, ITV, Melanin Agency, NAG Talent, NFTS, Sharon Henry Management, STV, The PMA Diverse Squad, The TCN, Time’s Up UK and Winterson’s.
They have been developed for producers and programme makers working with Black, Asian and minority ethnic talent to ensure the hair and makeup experience on set is professional, fair and equal in a bid to amend a history of discrimination against Black, Asian and minority ethnic actors. They can also be applied to all of those working in the screen industries.
Making the Principles
Accessible
The principles should be made available to everyone working within the creative industries, with a specific focus on producers and programme makers.
They can be distributed in print format and electronically via email or online posting, making them as prominent as possible to everyone and in as many different formats as possible.
The following organisations have publicly supported the set of principles:
• All3Media
• Anne Little
• BBC
• Channel 4
• Core MGMT
• Creative Diversity Network
• Donna Taberer
• Fremantle
• ITV
• Melanin Agency
• NAG Talent
• NFTS
• Pact
• Sharon Henry Management
• STV
• The PMA Diverse Squad
• The TCN
• Time’s Up UK
• Winterson’s
For more details please read the guidance notes.