Introduction
This resource has been commissioned by Pact in partnership with DANDI to provide guidelines for producers working with Black, Asian and minority ethnic talent. The aim is to ensure that productions are not only inclusive but also equipped with the knowledge and resources needed to meet the needs of all talent.
Recent incidents in the entertainment industry, highlighted by articles in leading publications such as Variety, have brought to light significant issues regarding equity in hair and makeup services for actors, presenters and contributors. This has led to numerous challenges for Black, Asian and minority ethnic on-screen talent, affecting their mental wellbeing and professional performance.
Aims &Objectives
This guidance will help producers and programme makers ensure that productions are not only inclusive but also equipped with the knowledge and resources needed to meet the diverse needs of all talent.
Responsibilities
& The Law
Race is a protected characteristic under the 2010 Equality Act, which means a person must not be discriminated against because of their hair or hairstyle if it is associated with their race or ethnicity. Employers need to take all reasonable steps to prevent discrimination, bullying or harassment from taking place.
Pre-Production
& Planning Stage
Early Conversations
With On-Screen Talent
Producers should encourage input from on-screen talent about their specific hair and makeup needs early in the process. These discussions are essential to understand and plan for the specific requirements of Black, Asian and minority ethnic talent. Discussing hair and makeup needs early on helps to avoid any potential issues during production, ensuring a more smooth and efficient workflow.
Foster an environment where the individual feels comfortable expressing their preferences and concerns regarding their hair and makeup by using tools like Spotlight’s Makeup Profile feature which allows on-screen talent to share their makeup preferences during casting. This information, accessible to production teams at the point of hire, enables the Hair and Makeup Head of Department (HMU HOD) to prepare more effectively. The on-screen's talent's input should be taken seriously, as the individual understands their own needs and cultural significance.
Respect Identity
Recognise the personal and cultural significance of hair and makeup choices to the talent’s identity. Work collaboratively to reflect this in the character’s appearance.
Considerations for
Male Talent
Understanding the on-screen talent’s preferences for male grooming is essential. Producers should ensure that Black, Asian and minority ethnic male on-screen talent have access to barbers and Hair and Makeup Artists (HMUAs) who understand their specific needs.
Issues often arise from a lack of understanding about the different skills, tools, time and care required for grooming. Incorrect treatment of head and facial hair can cause irritation, damaged follicles, razor bumps, ingrown hairs and poorly shaped hairlines. Many hair and makeup designers/HODs opt to bring in barbers who can work across a wider range of hair and skin types, including European, as this approach not only reduces costs but also increases efficiency on set.
Allocation of
Budget and Time
Ensure that the budget allocated is adequate for the products and tools required. The time required for a particular hair style or for working on a look needs to be discussed and agreed with the talent and the HMUAs.
If producers or hair and makeup designers/HODs are concerned about the cost of Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup needs, these issues should be addressed early in the conversations. Explore suitable alternatives that still meet the talent's needs without compromising on quality or respect.
Hiring Hair &
Makeup Artists
The Importance of
Experienced HMU Designers
Creating a hair and makeup team with a diverse set of relevant skills is vital. The team should include hair and makeup (HMU) designers experienced in different hair types and skin tones. Ideally it is important that one person in a senior role has experience of working with textured hair and darker skin tones. This is critical for guiding decisions on product selection, quality control, and ensuring value for money. Additionally, their expertise is necessary for handling complex hairstyling requirements, male grooming and prosthetics, all of which require specialised approaches. Oversight is important, as artists may lack experience of these areas at senior level.
Where to Find
Experienced HMUAs
Producers play a critical role in sourcing and securing talented hair and makeup artists (HMUAs) who can cater to the diverse needs of Black, Asian and minority ethnic on-screen talent.
Here are some suggestions for sourcing experienced talent:
- Black Beauty Roster (BBR)
A diversity and inclusion platform that connects the TV and film, fashion, commercial and beauty industry with diverse beauty professionals for on and off set needs while also providing education to the broader industry. They are US based but crew internationally.
- DANDI
DANDI provides resources and training to support producers and their teams. This includes access to custom training programmes tailored to the specific needs of each production, as well as a recruitment service to help source experienced HMUAs.
- Look Beyond the List
A resources site for underrepresented groups working behind the camera in scripted TV and film, primarily focused on the UK with a worldwide reach. The website includes details of talent lists, support groups, social action links and more to promote inclusivity and equity.
- Makeup Artist Network UK
A Facebook network for makeup artists who need assistance, cover and emergency cover of bookings. The group also allows clients to request makeup artists throughout the UK.
- Palette_16
An Instagram account celebrating and promoting the creativity of African/ Caribbean, Asian and ethnic HMUAs in film, TV and editorial.
- ScreenSkills Hair and Makeup Trainee Finder
A service that can help productions find diverse entry-level talent in hair and makeup departments.
- The Complete Makeup Artist
A Facebook group for makeup artists working in film, fashion, television and theatre.
- The Hue List
A database of film, TV and commercial crew from Black, Asian, Arab and mixed heritage backgrounds.
- The Melanin Agency
An agency that provides expert hair, makeup and costume services tailored for the media and entertainment industry. They specialise in Black, Asian and minority ethnic people both in front of and behind the camera.
- TV and Film Makeup Artists
A Facebook group where HMUAs can share updates and productions can post information about positions they are looking to fill.
- WhatsApp Groups
Growing in popularity among industry professionals, these closed networks often include HODs and can be valuable for sharing resources, job opportunities, and industry insights. Producers should be aware of these groups and consider engaging with them to access a wider pool of diverse talent.
Creating an Inclusive
Culture on Set
InclusionTraining
Ensuring that crew members are given inclusion training is crucial to foster a respectful and inclusive environment on set. This can include cultural competence, the importance of language, representation, recognising and addressing microaggressions, and fostering a supportive environment for all.
Ensure Understanding
Amongst Senior Production Staff
It is vital that senior members of production and the hair and makeup (HMU) department are made aware of the issues that can arise when adequate provisions are not made for all hair types and skin colours.
A great resource is the Sky-backed documentary, Untold Stories: Hair on Set which underscores the urgent need for skilled HMU professionals who understand Black hair textures and skin tones. This documentary is supported by industry broadcasters and provides crucial insights into the real-world challenges faced by Black on-screen talent. It highlights the importance of proper hair and makeup services in ensuring they feel valued and respected on set.
World Afro Day is a great way to raise awareness and foster an inclusive environment in the entertainment industry for historically marginalised groups. Endorsed by the UN Office of the High Commissioner for Human Rights, World Afro Day is a Global Day of Celebration and liberation for Afro hair and identity. It tackles hair discrimination and promotes education, equality and the beauty of Afro hair.
Create
Safe Spaces
Establish safe spaces where crew members can discuss issues related to diversity and inclusion without fear of retaliation. This encourages open communication and continuous improvement.
Language
Creating inclusive and culturally sensitive language guidance for Black, Asian, and minority ethnic hair and makeup is important to foster understanding, respect and inclusivity. Below is a summary of best practices for such guidance:
General Principles
- Avoid Stereotypes
Refrain from making assumptions about hair types, skin tones or makeup preferences based on ethnicity. - Be Specific
Use accurate and respectful terminology for hair types (e.g. coily, kinky, wavy) and skin tones (e.g. deep, medium, fair with neutral undertones). - Ask, Don’t Assume
When working with on-screen talent, ask about their preferences and hair and makeup needs directly. - Cultural Sensitivity
Be aware of the cultural significance of certain hairstyles, makeup styles and practices.
Accountability
& Feedback
Monitor
& Review
Regularly review the work of the hair and makeup department to ensure it aligns with the production’s goals of authenticity and inclusivity; this may include bringing in consultants or experts to provide feedback. Develop mechanisms for continuous feedback and improvement; this can include anonymous surveys, suggestion boxes and regular debrief sessions where crew members can share their experiences and suggestions.
Take
Responsibility
Producers should take ultimate responsibility for how Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair and makeup is portrayed in their projects. If issues arise, they should be addressed promptly and with a commitment to improvement.
Genre-Specific
Considerations
Unscripted
Productions
- Provide adequate hair and makeup time in production schedules, especially for shows with quick turnarounds.
- For observational documentaries, discuss with subjects their comfort level with on-camera appearance and provide support as needed.
- For historical documentaries, consult experts on accurate representation of hair and makeup for different time periods and cultures.
- Have a diverse team of hair and makeup artists available for quick touch-ups and last-minute changes.
- Be mindful of cultural sensitivities around hair and beauty standards.
Scripted Productions
TV Drama/Comedy
- Hire diverse hair and makeup teams for the duration of production.
- Ensure proper budgeting for specialised hair and makeup needs.
- Allow extra time in shooting schedules for hair and makeup.
- Have a wide range of products suitable for all hair types and skin tones.
- Work closely with writers, directors and on-screen talent to ensure that hair and makeup choices align with character development and storylines.
- Establish a robust system for maintaining continuity in hair and makeup across scenes and episodes, particularly for styles that may require more frequent touch-ups or restyling.
Film
Productions
- Include diverse hair and makeup professionals in pre-production planning.
- Budget for specialised hair and makeup needs from the outset.
- Ensure proper lighting equipment is available for all skin tones.
- Allow adequate time in schedules for hair and makeup needs.
- For period pieces, research and consult experts on authentic hair and makeup styles for Black, Asian and minority ethnic characters from the specific time period.
- Ensure that prosthetics artists are experienced in working with diverse skin tones and textures.
- Hair and makeup HODs should collaborate with the cinematography team during prep stage to ensure the best lighting and representation of Black, Asian and minority ethnic on-screen talent. Collaboration with the costume department may also be advised.
Head of Department
Responsibilities
It is crucial to emphasise that hair and makeup Heads of Department (HMU HODs) are responsible for hiring diverse teams. HODs should actively seek out and recruit professionals with experience in working with a wide range of hair textures and skin tones. This responsibility should be clearly communicated to HODs and supported by producers and production companies.
The Melanin Agency, a talent agency for hair styling, makeup application, fashion styling and costume design services crafted specifically for people of colour suggests these guidelines for HODs:
- Formalize the Requirement
The responsibility to hire diverse teams should be explicitly stated in HOD contracts or included in a Best Working Practice document. This ensures the expectation is clear and enforceable.
- Set Clear Hiring Guidelines
Develop specific guidelines for creating diverse and inclusive teams, including expectations for hiring professionals experienced with various hair textures, skin tones, and cultural practices. These guidelines should be shared with HODs and production teams.
- Provide Training and Resources
Offer regular training focused on cultural competency, understanding diverse hair and makeup needs, and best practices for hiring inclusive teams. Additionally, provide a vetted directory of professionals skilled in diverse hair and skin tones to aid the hiring process.
- Enforce Accountability
Implement a system to track and report the diversity of hair and makeup teams to production companies. HODs’ performance reviews should include their commitment to diversity, influencing future hiring decisions.
- Incentivise Compliance
Consider recognition programmes or bonuses for HODs who consistently meet or exceed diversity standards, encouraging them to prioritise inclusive hiring.
- Make Diversity a Production Company Standard
Production companies should embed diversity into their hiring policies and contract negotiations. HODs should be supported and held accountable by the production companies in these efforts.
- Regular Monitoring and Feedback
Establish ongoing reviews of team composition on set, with input from cast and crew to ensure diverse talent is consistently being hired and their needs met. Adjustments should be made based on feedback.
Training &
Development
There are a number of measures you can take to help in the training and development of hair and makeup artists in the industry on your productions.
- Outreach to Black, Asian and minority ethnic Hairdressers
Engage with local hairdressers who specialise in Black, Asian and minority ethnic hair textures who have experience of filming. Establish connections and offer opportunities to work on set, potentially in daily roles. - Utilise Local Networks
Collaborate with local department stores to identify experienced makeup artists who may be interested in transitioning to set work. - Host Open Sessions
Organise open sessions where local hairdressers and makeup artists can meet with production teams. These sessions can provide insight into set work and offer practical information about the roles available. - Provide Training Opportunities
Incorporating training within the production process is essential for developing a team well versed in diverse hair and makeup needs. Training hair and makeup artists (HMUAs) on production scheduling is also important. - Mentorship Schemes
Develop mentorship schemes where less experienced makeup artists can learn from seasoned professionals. This not only enhances skills but also builds a supportive community within the crew. - Partnerships with Beauty Colleges
Forge partnerships with local beauty colleges to offer students internships and practical experiences on set. This again will need to be developed in an intentional way, working with local education institutions to make sure textured hair is a requirement and not an optional element.
Resources
- Untold Stories: Hair on Set
A valuable resource for understanding the challenges faced by Black, Asian and minority ethnic actors in hair and makeup. - BBC Creative Diversity Commitment
Outlines the BBC's new initiatives for improving diversity and inclusion in productions. - BBC Production Principles
The aim of the BBC's Inclusive Production Principles is to foster an inclusive culture on each and every production. These include ensuring hair and makeup stylists are provided that can work with afro textured hair and a variety of skin tones. - BECTU Hair and Makeup Branch
The Broadcasting, Entertainment, Communications and Theatre Union (BECTU) has a dedicated hair and makeup branch that advocates for professionals in the UK film and TV industry. - Black Leaders in TV
A community of Black professionals working in the TV industry. - BLCKSTR
Approved training providers giving hair and makeup training to on-set HMUAs working with textured hair and makeup on skins of colour. - Bectu Hair, Make-Up and Prosthetic Essential Skills Requirements for Working with Textured Hair and Darker Skin Tones
Bectu guidance which aims to ensure that ethnic minority actors receive the same quality of service with their hair and makeup as that provided for their white colleagues. - ITV Diversity Commissioning Fund
ITV is reserving £80m of its content commissioning budget to drive change towards racial equity and disability equity in whose stories get told and who gets opportunities in TV production. The ITV Production Principles, established in 2021 and which every programme signs up to, also includes a clause to ensure that Black and Asian actors are consulted in relation to hair and makeup and that qualified hair and makeup crew are hired. ITV has also run Black Hair courses for their soaps and daytime programming. - My Hair, My Crown
A tool for educators, parents and mentors to boost hair confidence in kids with coils, curls, waves and protective styles – and to build allyship in others to create a respectful and open world for natural hair. - ScreenSkills
Offers various training programmes and resources for the entertainment industry, including diversity and inclusion initiatives. - Spotlight Inclusive Complexion Edit
The Diverse Squad has partnered with MAC to launch the Inclusive Complexion Edit. Discounted kits are being offered to all industry representatives for a limited time. Educational videos on how to create looks for various skin tones are available online to support makeup artists. Actors of all skin tones are able to go into any MAC Cosmetics store to determine their appropriate MAC shade number and input this information into their Spotlight profile for production personnel and agents to use as reference. - The British Blacklist
A media platform and network for Black British creatives in the entertainment industry. - The Halo Code
The Halo Code champions all Afro hairstyles and aims to get rid of hair discrimination in schools and workplaces. - The PMA Diverse Squad
A working group of eight female agents of colour from the Personal Managers’ Association (PMA) who formed to address the issues facing non-white actors in the industry. Their work includes their survey report, Race Between the Lines: Actors’ Experience of Race and Racism in Britain’s Audition and Casting Process and On Set commissioned in collaboration with the Sir Lenny Henry Centre for Media Diversity. Members of the working group are Julianna Bautista (IAG), Ikki El-Amriti (IAG), Dawn Green (CAM), Sharon Henry (Sharon Henry Management), Ebun Osobu (Winterson's), Sara Sehdev (Core Mgmt), Keana-Marie Senior (Victoria Lepper Associates) and Mildred Yuan (Mildred Yuan). - Time's Up UK
A charity that insists on safe, fair and dignified work for everyone. This work includes ensuring hair and makeup equality for all in a bid to end the discrimination faced by Black and global majority actors in this space. - World Afro Day
Provides resources and information about Afro hair and identity.